With fresh eyes: show & tell - a design process

Yesterday Kelley came over to help me with a pattern. You know, the never-ending-I'm-beating-a-dead-horse-as-well-as-my-head-against-the-wall elusive bag pattern.

That one.

Kelley is so patient. And much better with patterns than I am. I'm trying to keep it simple. I have to keep it simple if I want to add it to the line because I'll be replicating it many, many times.

I showed her all the duds - showed her what I liked and didn't like about each one. Showed her a few patterns I had, and what I liked and didn't like about each one - mainly didn't like. She suggested taking one of my current bags and flipping it upside down and working from there, because that was the general shape I was looking for.

And we made a pattern. Then she went home. And this time, after she left, I only made a shell of a bag - which is what one would normally do when drafting patterns, right? Even the 'real' designers don't start out with everything in place (interfacing, hardware, etc.). They make a muslin prototype. I guess the reason I dislike making the prototype in the first place is that I'm always hopeful it will turn out right the very first time (HA!), and it will be useful and ready for me from the get-go. Wishful thinking!

Thinking out loud: It was a good call to make the prototype shell Kelley. Because, while I liked the overall shape, I wanted it to be just a bit taller/longer/bigger, so I redrafted our pattern and added the inches to the bottom, not the top. The only problem with the prototype shell though, was that it was just that: a shell. I didn't make the lining, and I didn't interface it.

 

So when I drafted the second prototype, I went for it - lock, stock, interfacing and lining. It basically worked, but I'm still not happy with the top. Making the first prototype didn't allow me to sew the curve of the top opening and I don't like sewing curves - my industrial machine doesn't have a drop-away panel and I don't like wrestling with bags.

You see that? I don't like that. It only happens when the bag is full, and really, I don't carry around a ton of stuff, but some people do.

Once again it's back to the drawing board, or worktable. As you can see, when I get a bug, I have a hard time letting go of it. The first incarnation of this bag was made 18 months ago. I put it away for a year, but have made at least 6 various attempts at this in the last 6 months. The vision I have in my head is not making it to the real product. I should probably just let it go, but I'm super stubborn like that. Just ask anyone who lives here.

Comments

[Chelsea D.]

You have great perseverance my dear-the bag looks great, but I know what you mean about the gap. I have a pattern that has been bugging me with that too. Dratted gaps!

[Sarah]

I must, must have that print - Keep Calm & Carry On. Do tell.

I have to say - that bag is gorgeous....

[Lili]

Have you tried using a heavier interfacing Carrie? It looks like all the support is coming from the tension of the straps and its more floppy (sorry!) in the middle. Heavier interfacing would support the curve... but then I wonder if the bag would bow out? Or maybe a magnetic snap in the middle to hold it in? Cute bag either way!

[Donna]

I love the bag style. Can I put in a request for a not-as-tall version, too? I really like this, so perfect it, please! =)

[Myrna]

Having fiddled with patterns too, my initial thought is that the bag height might be a tad too tall and thats what's causing that blasted gap. Or maybe the overall bag width could be increased? Just seems like it might be one or the other of these causing it. Good luck!

[LizKnits]

It looks like it's well on its way to being a fabulous bag! Good luck with the rest of the process.

[Gina]

Too funny, I just got that poster recently!!! It doesn't help does it??

I LOVE this bag style. But I'm a huge bag person and carry everything but the kitchen sink.

[beki]

GOod for you for sticking with it! I would have ditched the effort long ago. I understand your complaint with the gap, I face the problem often and can't stand it. I wish I had the magic answer.

[Elaine L.]

I like the shape of the bag. I would have to stick with it, too.

Know any engineers? Seriously, an engineer would probably be able to pinpoint the problem.

~elaine~

[erin]

i think it is really cute! love the fabric and the shape. i don't have any suggestions for the gap. good luck!

[Georgia]

The only thing I can think of is to reinforce the top with something, maybe some kind of flexible boning?

I have made bags that shape before (except my sides curved in a bit) with peltex. They came out nice looking, with no gap, but they were a major pain to put through the machine. Notice there aren't any on my site!

[pam]

Love the shape and am interested in hearing what clears it up. I wondered stuff like is it to wide and that's why its poking out. Or the strap is too long/short. Sometimes I try on manufactured bags to see how they fit. Of course the easy answer is magnet, although they can be a hassle to put in.

Love the sign, got one for my daughter for Christmas, now I want one for myself, just can decide what color.

Also love the dog fur commentary. I have Norwich terriers, very low to the ground, why is there fur up so high? Do they have a secret life?

[Kathi D]

Oh, you are SO like me! Why do I think that I will just turn out a bag exactly like the one in my mind's eye on the first try? Then I get so impatient, and think I'm wasting so much time, as I make one after another. But does any great design ever take only one try? I doubt it.

I thought a magnetic closure in the middle might help, too. ?? I would probably put a little tab over the top with a button or magnetic closure--but I know you might not want to get that fussy. (and I don't know without trying it whether that would work, anyway)

[Cece Marie]

I've been working on new skirt patterns. ugh
I hope you don't mind my saying this...you probably already know this so I don't mean to state the obvious but unless a bag is really really structured (stiff like leather) if the strap is on the ends it is going to sag in the middle no matter what when there is weight in it, it is just the way the weight is distributed. I use to sell bags too and I'm a pattern maker.

[Toi]

I have the same problem when I work on apron patterns. I am just no good at it.

You have to get that bag down because I desparetly need a bag just like that. I have been looking for a bag that I can throw my patterns, fabric and notebook and all of my other treasures in and I can't find any that I like. This bag though, I LOVE. Love the fabric, the pattern, the gap (no one would ever notice that) everything about it. I hope this fabulous bag is available soon. I will be waiting patiently!

[j. caroline]

Okay, I'm avoiding finishing my taxes, so I'm obsessing about your bag. Love the shape. The only suggestion I have is using Ban-Rol or another heavy interfacing (even crinoline for upholstery) stitched to the upper seam allowance. It keeps you from having to make the whole bag super stiff, but it does give you some extra support at the top.

[girlsatplay]

Call me crazy, but....I like the bag the way it is, maybe a magnetic snap to keep things from falling out. More casual chic without too much structure.

Love the fabric, as well!

[Mel.J]

Maybe if the top of the bag was a little narrower? I guess it is a trade-off with convenient access (& I'd go for convenient access first) but I'm pretty confident it would reduce the gapping.

[susan]

i didnt read all the comments, so i dont know if this was said or not, but what about adding a little rectangle of fabric on one side and have it flip over the opening and use a button to close it??

[Daisy Cottage]

You are so cute!
I'm laughing because I've said the same thing looking at my curtains - doggy hairballs float everywhere in my house!
Love the bag!
xo,
Kim

[Irene]

Thanks for the great article! I will definitely keep that in mind next time I'm shopping for a handbag.